Thursday, January 10, 2019

Sports in American Public Spaces - Quoits

Quoits or as it sometimes was called in colonial British America--"pitchers," is a traditional lawn game which at that time involved throwing a metal (usually brass or iron) ring to land over one of two pins set about about 11-18 yards apart. The stake or pin, called a "hob, spud, spike, meg, or mott," was embedded in the center of a patch earth, often clay. The game is similar to horseshoe pitching and ring toss.

The quoit is a circular disc with a 4 inch hole in the middle which can weigh up to 10 pounds, although a weight of approximately 5 pounds is more common. This is thrown over the "hob," a stake or pin pounded into soil or clay, often set within a box-like framework. The game was played by 1 to 4 contestants per side. Each "pitcher" stands at one stake or pin and throws his quoit at the opposite stake or pin.  The player or "pitcher" is usually given two attempts at hitting the central hob. A quoit which lands on the hob is called a "ringer" and scores two points. The first player to reach 21 wins the game. Players also try to land their quoits in ways which block further attempts by other competitors.

There is evidence of a similar game played by ancient Greeks & Romans before spreading to Britain. It seems likely that the Romans introduced quoits during their occupation of Britain, from the 1st to 5th century. There are regular mentions of the game in England after 1388, although the game was banned in the 1360s by Edward III who believed it to be foolish.

English soldiers, arriving in the colonial New York area, introduced horseshoe pitching there. Some settlers, especially the Scots, coming into the British American colonies also brought along quoits. Thus, both games had devotees in the 17C & 18C centuries in America. American soldiers in the Revolutionary War found it easier to play horseshoes. Quoits had to be carried along with the equipment; shoes were available whenever there were horses & "smithies."

Quiots for Everyman

In an earlier posting, it was noted that colonists played quoits on the Boston Commons. Playing quoits on the common was open to all. The game was played in the streets, on the public greens, and at outdoor taverns throughout the 18C.

Although the game with organized teams remained strong in New York State from the 18C to mid 19C, quoits was viewed differently in the New England and the South during the first half of the 19C.

In the 1771, Connecticut Courant, a churchgoer denounced "the open Tolerance of our Youth to play Quoits in the street."

By 1787, the Massachusettes Legislature passed an act for The Due Legislation of Licenced Houses declaring that "no taverner, innholder, or victualler shall have or keep in or about their houses, yards, gardens, or dependencies any dice, cards, bowls, billiards, quoits, or any other implements used in gambling."

A 1788 article on drunkeness in the Pennsylvania Mercury and Universal Advertiser equated the immorality of drunkeness with cock-fighting, tobacco-chewing, and playing quoits.

An essay in the August 22, 1787 Pennsylvania Gazette noted, "A number of labourers play at quoits for the whole day at the taverns, running in debt for liquors, while their wives and children want bread."

Some above the Mason-Dixon Line disagreed with the banning of quoits as a public pastime. In the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Independent Gazetteer in 1790, one editorial writer calling himself A Freeman, expressed his concerns. "If one man, in a leisure hour, is fond of the Theatre, another of shooting at a target, fowling, or hunting, another of pitching quoits, another of playing billiards, shuffle board, cards, back-gammon, or chess, another of dancing &c, why should they be deprived of one more than the other?" The writer felt that only the barbarous customs such as bull-baiting and cock-fighting should be prohibited by law.

The Newburyport Herald on March 20, 1801, carried the following warning against the idle game of quoits, "Is there any harm in boy's pitching coppers?...I have seen their sports terminate in oaths, blows, and bloody noses...From coppers to quoits, from quoits to cards, and by degrees to all manner of crimes."

A few years later the Farmer's Cabinet New Hampshire, carried another admonition, "I know that there is in every village, a great manny idlers, lounging about the streets and tippling houses, drinking, swearing, and pitching quoits, and playing chequers, or ten pins...I don't know how long it will be before many of them will be in jail."

In South Carolina, the Southern Patriot carried a glowing endorsement of quoits as a gentleman's sport. "To do the business with grace and applause, you must throw your coat off, and never use gloves or thumb-cover. the quoits should be made of brass and well polished; iron is too rough and has to the eye a dead, heavy appearance; brass glitters in the air, and when one or more quoits are around the meg the bright metal is quite and assistance to the player. Four on a side is the best number for an interesting game. We observe that this amusement is growing popular hereabout, and we take occasion to say it is a good omen; when such games are popular with the best classes, it is a sure sign that gambling, drinking, and other vices are sinking into merited disgrace and neglect...It is pleasing to contrast such sports with the sickly misery of the card table, and the beastly scenes of a drunkery."

However, some of the warnings of New Englanders did seem valid, when the newspaper in Alexandria, Virginia, carried the following report, "Shocking Murder.--A man by the name of Gollyhorn was murdered in Dumfries, Virginia on Tuesday night last, by a person named Burgess. The parties were engaged in pitching quoits, when a quarrel ensured, during which Gollyhorn kicked Burgess in the face--after which Burgess procured a butcher's knife and returned to the place he had left Gollyhorn, and found him asleep on the step of a house, and upon his waking plunged the knife into his body. the deceased walked about twenty steps and dropped dead. Pursuit was immediately made after Burgess, who was apprehended and conducted to Bren't Ville, to await his trial in November."

Quoits for Southern Gentlemen

During the late 18C in the new republic, one of the most famous very private quoit clubs consisted of a group of men that met on Saturdays during the spring & summer seasons at Buchanan's Spring in Richmond, Virginia.

The club was also called the Richmond Sociable Club, or the Barbecue Club, and included members such as US Chief Justice John Marshall (1755-1835), Defense Attorney for Aaron Burr - John Wickham (1763-1839), US Attorney General William Wirt (1772-1834), US Senator Benjamin Watkins Leigh (1781-1849), the Reverend Mr. John Buchanan, and Parson John Blair.
U. S. Supreme Court Chief Justice John Marshall

A second Virginia quoit club was started in the early 19C and met at nearby Clarke's Spring. The two clubs were not competitors, but rather, served as alternates in each other's games.

Richmond had many clubs for its males in the early 19C, but quoits, a game of skill rather than luck, plus an excellent meal proved to be the basis for one of the most appealing. Quoits was popular game during the colonial period, because the equipment was simple to make.
Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826) by Charles Willson Peale (1741-1827) about 1791. Independence National Historical Park Collection, Philadelphia.

Thomas Jefferson, a young lawyer attending court in Staunton, noted in his memorandum book June 21, 1769, that he had lost sevenpence ha’penny playing “at pitchers” with Thomas Boyer. The players at those June courtdays were evidently out of Jefferson’s league, for he lost another ha'penny two days later in a contest with a Mr. John Madison. Playing quoits at courtdays was a particularly popular pastime in Virginia, which may be how Chief Justice John Marshall became such an expert at the game.

The origins of Richmond’s most famous quoit club were reported by the American Turf Register and Sporting Magazine in 1829: This club is probably the most ancient one of the sort in the United States, having existed upward of Forty years. It originated in a meeting, every other Saturday, from the first of May until the month of October, of some of the Scotch merchants who were early settlers in that town. They agreed each to take out some cold meats for their repast, and to provide a due quantity of drinkables...They occasionally invited some others of the inhabitants, who, finding the time passed pleasantly, proposed, in the year 1788, to form a regular club, consisting of 25 members, under a written constitution...which prohibited the use of wine and porter.
United States Attorney General William Wirt

And so,  a company of gentlemen having met at the Richmond Coffee House in the city of Richmond on Saturday the 13th Dec 1788…resolved to form themselves into a society by the name of the Amicable Society of Richmond…a week later, John Marshall was elected to membership, and on February 7, 1801, the Episcopal Priest John Buchanan was elected president of the Buchanan Spring Quoit Club. It was, afterall, his property they would be playing on for the next few decades.

The Buchanan Spring was on the property of Father Buchanan whose farm, Gielston, lay just north of Broad Street & Hancock Street in Richmond. The spring was in a garden-like setting with a grove of towering old oaks, which the rector readily opened for picnics. The Richmond Light Infantry Blues and the Buchanan Spring Quoit Club regularly took advantage of his hospitality.

The original membership of the Quoit Club was limited to 25, and that his number was not increased until 1853, when the limit was raised to 30. Membership was kept exclusive in the club where two adverse votes would disqualify a prospective member.  According to the 1829 Turf Register article, for some years after the founding of the club no vacancies occurred, and the idea was spread about that one could ensure longevity by becoming a member. “The Arch Destroyer, however, at length, appeared in all his strength, and made such havoc, that only one of the original members, (the venerable Chief Justice of the United States,) is now living…” A small membership prevented the growth of cliques within the club and allowed all members to participate in lively, open discussions & humor.

George Wythe Mumford recorded in The Two Parsons; Cupid's Sports; The Dream and The Jewels of Virginia some additional distinguished members of the Buchanan Spring Quoit Club: Dr. John Brockenbrough, the president of the Bank of Virginia; Dr. William Foushee, physician; Thomas Ritchie, editor of the Richmond Enquirer; Daniel Call, lawyer; Thomas Rutherford & Charles Ellis, merchants; Major James Gibbon, the hero of Stony Point; William Munford, a member of the Virginia Executive Council; Dr. Peter Lyons, physician; Colonel John Ambler; Colonel John Harvie; James Brown Jr., merchant & second auditor of the State; “besides others, equally meritorious, full of life, joyous and grave, in every way qualified to add to the merriment and sober pleasantries of such a party.”

The constitution of the club also provided honorary, but active, membership for the governors of the Commonwealth of Virginia during their terms of office.  One peculiar rule of the Buchanan Club which caused some hardship was the interdiction against political discussions at the meetings. To politically argumentative Virginia men, this restriction was difficult to observe, and Munford records a fine of one basket of champagne levied against two imprudent members by John Marshall.

Marshall's fine for the gentlemen was alcohol. The Club's original constitution included a prohibition against the use of liquor & wines except upon rare occasions, but this proved to be an extreme hardship, so the rule was not allowed to stand for long.

The 1829 Turf Register reveals, Some years ago, an amendment was made to the constitution, which admits the use of porter. Great opposition was made to this innovation, and the destruction of the club was predicted as the consequence. The oppositionists, however, soon became as great consumers of malt and hops as their associates…

The Buchanan Spring club members rapidly accustomed themselves to the presence of liquor at their meetings. Chester Harding, an artist who was painting a portrait of John Marshall, was invited to attend a meeting of the club, and he wrote, I went early...just as the party were beginning to arrive. I watched for the coming of the old chief. He soon approached with his coat on his arm, and his hat in his hand, which he was using as a fan. He walked directly up to a large bowl of mint-julep...and drank off a tumbler full of the liquid, smacked his lips, and then turned to the company, with a cheerful, “How are you, gentlemen?”
The recipe for the punch often served to the Quoit Club in the “Big Bowl” called for lemons, brandy, rum, and Madeira, poured into a bowl one-third filled with ice and sweetened.

Besides their own members, the club welcomed out-of-town guests, or “strangers” as they were called. Members of the club would call at the best hotels in the city on club day to determine if there were any distinguished travelers registered to invite to the club meeting. The sponsoring member was expected to contribute the cost of the guest’s meal. One of the frequent visitors to the club was General Winfield Scott. He especially liked hog jowl and turnip tops, which he called “pig’s cheek and salad.”

The "strangers" occasionally wrote of their welcome & entertainment by the club. Early in the morning of the meeting day, the members whose turn it was to act as caterers for the day would meet either at the Old Market on Main Street, or at the “New Market” on what is now Marshall Street. As it was then the custom for gentlemen to shop for their families, the caterers probably met a number of the other members strolling about the market. Some few followed John Marshall’s example and carried their baskets on their arms, but most would be followed by a son or servant, who would carry the burden.

As gentlemen stopped carting food to the club, there was a great rivalry among professional caterers to produce the best meal possible from the strictly limited sum allotted from the club’s treasury. However, caterers occasionally stretched the budget a bit, and paid the excesses themselves, as on June 30, 1838, when G. W. Munford & J. Rutherford were caterers. The club had given them $45, but they each contributed an additional 80 cents to pay the total bill.

Their account includes a pig, 47 pounds of mutton, 15 pounds of beef, 18 pounds of sturgeon, 12 chickens, and 2 large hams. To this, they added cucumbers, cymlings, beets, cabbage, potatoes, snaps, onions, herbs, mint, eggs, butter, cheese, lemons, sugar, pepper, capers, mustard, cayenne pepper, crackers, vinegar, lard, flour, and bread.

By this time, liquor was established as a necessity of the meetings, and the caterers ordered one and one-half gallons of brandy, one and one-half gallons of rum, one-half gallon of whiskey, 12 bottles of porter, and a pint of wine, plus 30 “segars.”

The caterers contracted with the well-known Richmond African American, Jasper Crouch to be butler & major-domo of the meeting. Jasper Crouch charged $3 for his services and the use of his cart to move the supplies to the meeting place, and he paid the cook and other servants himself. He also furnished such other necessities as firewood & ice.

In the middle of the warm summer afternoon, the members of the club would stroll out Broad Street toward the Buchanan farm. It was the custom for the members of the club to walk to meetings, even though most had horses or carriages.  Near the groups of newly arriving, conversing gentlemen was a fire where the foods for the meal were carefully prepared by several cooks. "The kitchen was just far enough off to be out of the way – but was in itself an attraction, and, to strangers, a curiosity, some of whom would go to take a look at the cooking process...The mode of roasting, too, was primitive...simply to build a platform by laying sticks across four stakes driven in the ground, and make a fire beneath the platform, and place the fish (or meat) upon it to be broiled."

When all the members had gathered and played the morning round of quoits, they would seat themselves around a long pine table under an open arbor for the meal. The main course of roast pig gave to the Buchanan Springs Quoit Club its informal name of the “Barbecue Club.” Cayenne pepper, which was heavily used in the preparation of the pig, made welcome the punch, porter, & toddies served at the table together with the juleps. Accompanying the roast pork were fish, other meats, and vegetables of the season. One guest recalled that he had never again eaten sturgeon cutlets to equal those prepared for the club.

According to George Munford, the only dessert was a “steaming juicy mutton chop, cooked to a turn, and deviled ham, highly seasoned with mustard, cayenne pepper, and a slight flavoring of Worcester sauce,” but another guest at one of the dinners mentioned fruits and melons which were served with the juleps at the end of the meal.

As John Marshall was considered the best player of the Buchanan Spring Club, he usually headed one team, and was often opposed by one lead by Parson John D. Blair. They each chose four partners, and the selected men doffed their coats and procured their quoits from Jasper Crouch, the custodian of the “weapons” of the club. Most of the players used smooth hightly polished brass rings, but the Chief Justice used extra large, heavy, rough iron rings which he threw with great power and accuracy.

"Mr. Marshall, with his long arms hanging loosely by his side, a quoit in each hand, leaning slightly to the right, carried his right hand and right foot to the rear; then, as he gave the quoit the impetus of his full strength, brought his leg up, throwing the force of the body upon it, struck the meg near the ground, driving it in at the bottom, so as to incline its head forward, his quoit being forced back two or three inches by the recoil. Without changing his position, he shifted the remaining quoit to his right hand, and, fixing the impression of the meg on the optic nerve by his keen look, again threw, striking his first quoit and gliding his last directly over the head of the meg. There arose a shout of exulting merriment."

Marshall was not only the Chief Justice of the United States Supreme Court, but he was also the chief judge of all disputes over the nearness of quoits to the meg, as the iron target stake was called in Virginia, and Artist Chester Harding wrote: “…before long, I saw the great Chief Justice of the …United States, down on his knees measuring the contested distance with a straw, with as much earnestness as if it had been a point of law; and if he proved to be in the right, the Woods would ring with his triumphant shout. What would the dignitaries of the highest court of England have thought, if they had been present?”

As the members aged, some did not choose to participate in the active sport but preferred to remain at the table under the arbor to watch the game & discuss topics of the day. One who seldom particpated was Senator Benjamin Watkins Leigh.  "Mr. Watkins Leigh, by common consent, possessed one of the finest intellects, not only in this fraternity, but in the State, and was gifted as a conversationalist; others were eminent, some for wit, some for anecdote, some for song, and taken together, there was an amount of wisdom, experience, learning spirit and culture which afforded the finest opportunity for enjoying a rare social intercourse."

Justice Marshall did not just play quoits at these club gatherings, even in his advancing years, he was the leader of the convivial spirits who gathered to pitch quoits, drink julep and punch, tell stories, sing songs, make speeches, and play pranks under the trees of Richmond.

Some apprarently drank to keep cool in the warm afternoons, even the Chief Justice. One Virginian recalled: "I do indeed remember that Mr. George D. Fisher (who’s mother was a sister of Mrs. Judge Marshall) once told me that he went over to the Judge’s house one Sunday morning just before breakfast, and seeing the Judge drinking a glass of water at that unusual hour, he said to him, “I notice, Sir; that you seem to be a little thirsty this morning!” “Yes,” replied the old gentleman, with a twinkle in his eye, “I find that I didn’t drink quite enough mint julep last evening!”

For more on the Buchanan Spring Quoit Club see: "Quoits, The sport of Gentlemen" Virginia Cavalcade Magazine. Summer, 1965, and George Wythe Mumford's The Two Parsons; Cupid's Sports; The Dream and The Jewels of Virginia. 1884.

Tuesday, January 8, 2019

Indoor & Outdoor Games at Public Pleasure Gardens & Parks - Battledore & Shuttlecock

1835 Ambrose Andrews. Children of Nathan Starr playing battledore & shuttlecock indoors. Middletown, Connecticut.

One popular game played in Early American public and private pleasure gardens was Battledore and Shuttlecock.  Since at least the Middle Ages in England, there had been a children's game known as "battledore and shuttlecock."   Adults could not resist the game.

It probably developed in ancient Greece & Rome, moving from there east to China, Japan, & India, and north to France & England. It is reported that the sport was sometimes called shuttlefeather, although I cannot find reference to this in the Oxford English Dictionary.

Players used a paddle, called a battledore, to keep a cork stuffed with feathers, called a shuttlecock, in the air for as long as possible. The battledore was a small, lightweight racket made of parchment or rows of gut stretched across wooden frames. Battledore was originally the name given to a wooden bat used for beating clothes during washing in England.

Battledore makers used leaves of old and sometimes valuable books to cover their rackets. A 1792 story in The Federal Gazette and Philadelphia Evening Post related that "A page of the Second Decade of Livy was found by a man of letters on the parchment of his battledore, as he was amusing himself in the country. He ran directly to the maker of the battledore; but arrived too late; the man had finished the last page of Livy in compleating a large order for these articles about a week before."
Because the shuttlecock was a feathered projectile, its inherent aerodynamic properties made it fly through the air differently than the more ordinary balls used in most racquet sports. The feathers created higher drag, causing the shuttlecock to decelerate more rapidly than a ball. On the other hand, shuttlecocks had a higher top speed compared to balls in similar racquet sports, so shuttlecocks could be a little tricky to control.  Since shuttlecock flight could usually affected by wind (because of its lightness), the game was sometimes played indoors. It was usually played outdoors during warm weather as a casual recreational activity, often in private & commercial pleasure gardens. By the 16th century, it had become widely popular among children in England. In Europe this racquet sport was known as Jeu de Volant and was popular with the upper classes. The game traveled to the British American colonies with the English settlers.

At the Maryland Historical Society in Baltimore, documents survive of a 1742 order of battledores & shuttlecocks sent to Maryland from an English merchant. American gentry began to have portraits of their sons painted with their bright red battledores and shuttlecocks, the spelling of which varied across the years.
In 1764, the Boston Gazette and Country Journal carried an advertisement selling imported "Battledores and Shittlecocks." And in 1770, the Boston News-Letter advertised the sale of  "Battledores and Shutlecocks."  The 1782 Royal Gazette in New York City offered "Battledores and Shuttlecocks For the Season," as did the New York Packet and the The Pennsylvania Packet and Daily Advertiser in 1790. An 1831 notice in the Baltimore Patriot advertised for sale "Battlecocks and Birds."

1758 John Singleton Copley (American colonial era painter, 1738-1815). Young Thomas Aston Coffin with Battledore and Shuttlecock.

Battledore and shuttlecock was not a competitive sport. Probably the most intriguing aspect of the game was that it was a cooperative sport with the players trying to see how long they could keep the shuttlecock in the air. It did not pit player against player, a rather refreshing concept in the 21st century. The game was usually played by children, families, and young adults during the 18th century.
1770-75 William Williams (American Colonial era painter, 1727-1791). Boy with Battledore and Shuttlecock, Possibly of the Crossfield Family.

During the 19th century, American girls were encouraged to play battledore and shuttlecock to maintain good health. In 1828, Republican Star and General Advertiser of  Easton, Maryland, published an article on Exercises Most Conducive to Health in Girls & Young Women. "Nearly the same exercises with the exception of wrestling, cricket, quoits, & those sports properly termed athletic, which are proper for boys, may be recommeded for young girls--trundling a hoop, battledore, trap ball, and every game which can exercise both legs and arms, and at the same time the muscles of the body, should be encouraged."

Apparently games of battledore & shuttlecock were packaged up and sent as presents to young girls away at boarding school. Writing of his contrary aunt Eleanor, one young man commented in the Farmers Gazette in Barre, Massachusettes, in 1834, "At school it was the same. If you sent her a plumb cake, she wanted a battledore and shuttlecock; and if battledore and shuttlecock had been presented, she was sure to have longed for a plumb cake."
1770-75 William Williams (American Colonial era painter, 1727-1791). Portrait of Master Stephen Crossfield

It is not my intention to turn the end of this blog entry into a romance novel, but this actually appeared in a Massachusettes newspaper early in the 19th century. Occasionally young men and women played together with predictable results. The New Bedford Mercury of Massachusetts published in 1829, "while boys and girls, scarcely half way in their teens, have fallen in love at battledore and shuttlecock, galloped off the next morning...been married...and thrown two whole families into hysterics, who have afterwards passed their youth like turtle doves, their maturer years like the tenderest of friends."

Sunday, January 6, 2019

Food & Drink in American Public Gardens - Turtle soup, warm milk, & smallpox

Most public pleasure gardens in the British American colonies and the new republic offered regular schedules of refreshments, meals, and entertainments, so customers could plan their visits accordingly.



In New York City in 1763, John Marshall advertised that his Spring Gardens were opening "for Breakfasting from 7 o'clock 'til 9. Tea in the Afternoon from 3 til 6." Patrons could order green tea, madeira, mead, cakes, and "hot French roles."

When it first opened in 1761, Corlear's Hook Tavern and Garden in New York perched on the promontory that projected into the East River at the spot called Corlears's Hook offered only breakfasts on a regular schedule. "Gentlemen and Ladies who chuse to take the Air in the Morning, will be genteely entertained with Tea, Coffee, or Chocolate for Breakfast, any Morning of the week."



A New System Of Domestic Cookery by Maria Rundell published in 1807, explained how to make hot chocolate.  "Cut a cake of chocolate in very small bits; put a pint of water into the pot, and, when it boils, put in the above; mill it off the fire until quite melted, then on a gentle fire till it boil; pour it into a basin, and it will keep in a cool place eight or ten days, or more. When wanted, put a spoonful or two into milk, boil it with sugar, and mill it well. This, if not made thick, is a very good breakfast or supper."

But after John Brandon took over the management of the New York City garden in 1772, the scope of the regular entertainment broadened considerably. "It is a pleasant Walk from Town...the best of Wines, Arrack, Rum, Taunton Ale, Porter, and other Liquors are provided, Dinners...for large or small companies...Relishes ...Mead, Cakes, Teas, Coffee, Syllabub...Morning or Afternoon."

When New Yorker John Jones opened Ranelagh Garden in the summer of 1765, he offered regular breakfasting from 6 to ten 10 the morning, and tea & coffee "served in the genteelest Manner" each afternoon. In the evenings the garden was "illuminated."

On Mondays and Thursdays, however, he added a concert of music from 6 in the evening until 9 followed by fireworks until ten. Guests danced in a "commodious Hall in the Gardens" or met more intimately in smaller "Drawing Rooms" to drink "the very best of Wine, and other Liquors, Meade, Sillabub" and eat "Gammons, Tongues, Alamode Beef, Tarts,... Cakes." With advance notice, guests could order complete dinners.



King's Arms Tavern and Garden opened in New York City before 1754. When Edward Bardin became the propriator, his daily schedule included breakfast from 7 until 10, tea from midday until six, and tarts from 7 until 9 in the evening. Musicians played in the garden three evenings each week. Bardin erected a "neat and commodious Room in the Garden, for the Retreat of the Company when the Weather is unfavorable."

Some gardens became famous for their house specials. When Edward Bardin opened The Kensington in New York City in 1775, he promised the garden would be illuminated every night and serve the house specialty, "chicken pie," as well as the customary cakes, wines, and liquors.



When John Hogg took over the operation of Joseph Tyler's greenhouse and garden restaurant in New York City in 1808, he advertised an "uncommon fine Green Turtle" soup as his specialty. The Lombardy Gardens, on the present site of the Broad Street Train Station in Philadelphia, also depended on its turtle soup to attract patrons to its concerts, illuminations, and fireworks. 


John Tyler (1790-1862)   

Turtle soup continued to be a favorite in 19C America, especially along the Atlantic coastline.  William Henry Harrison died only a month after his inauguration as President of the United States, & John Tyler, who succeeded him, held a Fourth of July dinner that year that included turtle soup. A giant 300 pound turtle from Key West had been given to the new president as a gift & ended up on the White House dinner table. After dinner, Tyler & his guests walked out onto Lafayette Square to enjoy a fireworks display.


In 1797, ice cream and pastry maker Peter Thorn opened Apollo's Garden in New York City. He sold his specialties at the garden along with "warm milk from the cow every morning."   Apparently, drinking warm milk directly from the cow was an acceptable practice in England's most genteel families.


Charles Philips (British artist,  1703–1747) Syllabub straight from the Cow The Russell and Revett Families in a Landscape

One of the perceived benefits from drinking milk in the 18C was its potential as a smallpox inhibitor. In 18C Europe, it was commonly believed that milk maids (women who milked cows & sold milk) seemed to be immune from the smallpox plagues, when they swept through Europe. 


New Cries of London Sold by Darton and Harvey 1803 Milk

In 1796, English physician Edward Jenner developed a vaccine for smallpox based upon this folk knowledge.  "Recognizing that dairymaids infected with cowpox were immune to small-pox, Jenner deliberately infected James Phipps, an eight year old boy, with cowpox in 1796. He then exposed Phipps to smallpox-which Phipps failed to contract. After repeating the experiment on other children, including his own son, Jenner concluded that vaccination provided immunity to smallpox…"

As late as 1899, using warm milk against smallpox was still being advocated.  In the medical journal Gaillard's Medical Journal, Volumes 70-71, of 1899, the doctor was instructed to "obtain the smallpox lymph in the vesicular stage only, and admix the same thoroughly with from three to six drops of fresh, warm cow's milk, and proceed to operate precisely as for vaccination. Modified inoculation, thuspractised, is not communicated by contact or contagion."

Friday, January 4, 2019

Food & Drink at American Public Gardens & Inns -Drinking

The favorite liquid attraction--almost almost always available, even in the most modest colonial public pleasure garden--was alcohol. The earliest references to tavern gardens in the British American colonies revolve around enjoying liquid spirits.

During the colonial period it was a commonly held belief, that drinking ground water in the British American colonies could possibly make one sick.  To combat this real or imagined danger, colonists of every rank, age, race, & gender drank alcohol often - from fermented, homemade, aged cider to distilled liquors.  Generally, families drank with every meal, while at work, and at every social & public gathering except church. Almost everyone was something of a tippler.  (In the 14th century, a tippler was a seller of liquor rather than an avid consumer.  It came to mean a habitual drinker 200 years later. Tipsy was used to describe the slightly intoxicated as early as 1577.)

And colonials gathered together to drink.  Indoor & garden taverns became the scene for political debate, business transactions, gossip, and even romance, because women were more often allowed in garden taverns than in indoor taverns.  (First appearing in print in 1286, the word tavern initially meant a wine shop.  It didn’t become a proper place to drink until around 1440.)



The small space of most indoor tavern public rooms furnished with a few tables & many more chairs physically drew people closer together. Sharing a bowl of punch became an 18C symbol of congeniality & fellowship, even a prelude to a conversation between strangers. The scarcity of punch bowls & the absence of punch cups in early American tavern inventories imply the bowls were shared. A Frenchman reported that, “One who is thirsty drinks himself and (then) passes it to his neighbor. . .”  Except for the owner, a woman, all of the guests at this, and at most, indoor taverns were men.

Men and women alike shared the intoxicating pleasures in many early outdoor garden taverns. In the 1730s, Hannah Callender visited the New York City's mead houses along the Hudson River. At Bowling Green Garden she found "a row of neat wooden houses a little within the palisadoes called the Mead houses, where it is customary to drink this liquor and eat cakes."  Hannah explained that mead was a liquor made of honey "which is weak and has a pleasant taste." Two weeks later she returned to the Bowling Green Garden, where she "sat in a bower and drank some sangaree."

Indoor taverns were alternately called public houses, ordinaries, and inns.  Some outdoor drinking gardens were attached to these facilities for fair weather use.  At outdoor garden taverns attached to established inns the colonial usually could swill meads, beer, wine, rum, and brandy.  (The verb swill is a derivative of the Old English swillan (to gargle), and came to mean “to drink greedily” at the beginning of the 16th century. In 1553, to call beer swill was to compare it to “liquid refuse fed to pigs.”)

By the way, rum was not initially popular with all colonials.   Originally dubbed rumbullion in 1651, by Richard Ligon, an American who happened upon the stuff in Barbados. His review wasn’t exactly glowing: “Rumbullion alias Kill-Devill . . . is made of suggar cane distilled, a hott, hellish and terrible liquor . . . will overpower the senses with a single whiff.”  It was shortened to rum 3 years later, but its reviews didn’t get any better - in 1654, a General Court Order was issued in Connecticut to seize and destroy “whatsoever Barbados liquors, commonly called rum, Kill Devill or the like.”  James Oglethorpe, founder of Georgia, feared rum would ruin his venture & tried to ban it.

Indoor and garden taverns closely followed their English & Dutch Old World models. The goals of colonial officials, who eventually set regulations for these taverns, were to maintain public order; to prevent extreme drunkenness; to attempt to prevent public drinking on the Sabbath; and to establish rules for tavern keepers to try to enforce these objectives. Generally, these laws were not enforced with any regularity. As early as 1622, the Virginia Company of London wrote to Governor Francis Wyatt at Jamestown complaining that colonist drinking hurt the colony. It was still a concern to Royal Governors 130 years later.  The Governor of Virginia said to his legislative body in 1752, "I . . . recommend to you, as far as possible, to discourage Gaming, Swearing, and immoderate Drinking . . . . The first of these crimes, I am informed, has been pretty general in this Country, and is now much practised ...among the lower Class of our People: I mean Tradesmen and inferior Planters . . . who follow the Examples of their Superiors."

One Sunday during Jasper Danckaerts' visit to New York City in 1679, his hosts took him to an outdoor garden to sample the "beer of New Netherland."  Danckaerts was appalled by the "sorts of revellers" he found there on a holy day and called the simple garden tavern a "low pot house." In order to regain some semblence of Sabbath day self-respect, he turned on his heels and immediately walked out into the adjoining garden & orchard "to seek pleasure in contemplating the innocent objects of nature."

Eighteenth century gentry lawmakers tried to keep the "low pot house" revellers from mixing with the more elite gentlemen of the community.  Drinking venues sometimes became more segregated by race, class, & status, but generally a variety of people met in colonial garden taverns.  The garden tavern was a place where social divisions were still in flux & negotiation was possible.

Most entertainments in garden taverns were open to both men & women.  Gentlemen began to form "clubs" and societies in the 18C, however, and only white gentry could attend these functions, which met at both indoor & outdoor venues.  So the normally open public space in the outdoor garden could be turned into a site for an expression of white male power.  But, for the most part, outdoor garden taverns were still open networks of communication between a variety of folks.

Other New Yorkers shared Danckaerts' reservations about drinking on Sundays, so the Common Council of the City of New York declared in 1676, that "Every Wine and Rum or Beare Sellas who shall Permit any Person Upon the Sabbath day to Drinke or Game In their houses Gardens or Yards Shall for ye first offense forfiet Five and Twenty Guilders."

During the 18C evangelical awakenings, traveling preachers William Tennent & George Whitefield stressed the values of thrift & sobriety as components of the new piety. In 1734, a convinced Philadelphia versifier warned the artisan and farmer,
But citizens oft reap a slender crop
For that the tavern stands near the shop.
And such as do that costly liquor follow
In a little time a good estate may swallow.

Religion was not the only reservation about drinking alcohol. Fifty years later, Americans began to worry about the medical effects of alcohol abuse. In 1784, Philadelphian Dr. Benjamin Rush wrote his Inquiry into the Effects of Ardent Spirits upon the Human Body and Mind, with an Account of the Means of Preventing, and the Remedies of Curing Them.  The physician described certain symptoms of excessive alcohol consumption including, "singing, hallooing, roaring, imitation the noise of brute animals, jumping, tearing off clothes, dancing naked, breaking glass and china and dashing other articles of household furniture upon the floor or ground."

In Philadelphia, Harrogate Gardens attempted to rival its famous neighbor Gray's Gardens at the end of the 18C. To attract patrons, the Harrowgate's owner offered the latest garden fashions in ice creams, concerts, promenades, special exhibitions, transparent paintings, fireworks, and illuminations "in the Chinese style."  But primarily, Harrowgate Gardens was reknown for its drunken revelers. In 1794, Henry Wansey noted that Harrowgate was, "a place of entertainment and relaxation, for the tradesmen of Philadelphia to partake of."

One Harrogate Garden neighbor recalled, "Rosey-cheeked, fair-haired German lads and lasses...resorted thither weekly. They usually arrived in the morning, drank beer, danced and...had a...happy time...In the afternoon an Irish contingent...would appear, previously fortified...by sundry repeated imbibings of whisky. Their aim was to cut out the 'Dutchies'...gain for themselves the smiles and favour of the Teuton maids, and supplant the German waltz on the dancing floor by the Irish jig. Confusion and heartburnings, if nothing worse, always resulted--worse did almost invariably follow and added the testimony of broken pates to the unwisdom of mixing drinks."


Once again, because there are no images of Early American public gardens, here are a few 17C inns & taverns in Europe


1652 Belgium Flemish Kermess David Teniers the Younger (Flemish artist, 1610–1690)

Adriaen Jansz Van Ostade (1610-1685) Feasting Peasants in a Tavern 1673. 

 Adriaen Jansz Van Ostade (1610-1685) Tavern Interior 1680

Adriaen Jansz Van Ostade (1610-1685) The Drinker


In the British American colonies, Philadelphian Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790) had taken note public intoxication as early as 1737, when he published his Drinker's Dictionary in a local paper.


The Drinker’s Dictionary
by Benjamin Franklin Posted on January 13, 1737 The Pennsylvania Gazette  There was a similar list published in the New England Weekly Journal of July 6, 1736.

Nothing more like a Fool than a drunken Man.  Poor Richard.

 A
 He is Addled,
 He’s casting up his Accounts,
 He’s Afflicted,
 He’s in his Airs.


1658 Belgium Tavern Scene by David Teniers the Younger (Flemish artist, 1610–1690)

B
 He’s Biggy,
 Bewitch’d,
 Block and Block,
 Boozy,
 Bowz’d,
 Been at Barbadoes,
 Piss’d in the Brook,
 Drunk as a Wheel-Barrow,
 Burdock’d,
 Buskey,
 Buzzey,
 Has Stole a Manchet out of the Brewer’s Basket,
 His Head is full of Bees,
 Has been in the Bibbing Plot,
 Has drank more than he has bled,
 He’s Bungey,
 As Drunk as a Beggar,
 He sees the Bears,
 He’s kiss’d black Betty,
 He’s had a Thump over the Head with Sampson’s Jawbone,
 He’s Bridgey.


England 1730 A Club of Gentlemen by Joseph Highmore (English painter, 1692-1780)  Note:  Since 1633, a round of drinks has meant “a quantity of liquor served to a company at one time;” probably because it was customary for gentlemen to drink at these round tables in a circle facing one another.

C
 He’s Cat,
 Cagrin’d,
 Capable,
 Cramp’d,
 Cherubimical,
 Cherry Merry,
 Wamble Crop’d,
 Crack’d,
 Concern’d,
 Half Way to Concord,
 Has taken a Chirriping-Glass,
 Got Corns in his Head,
 A Cup to much,
 Coguy,
 Copey,
 He’s heat his Copper,
 He’s Crocus,
 Catch’d,
 He cuts his Capers,
 He’s been in the Cellar,
 He’s in his Cups,
 Non Compos,
 Cock’d,
 Curv’d,
 Cut,
 Chipper,
 Chickery,
 Loaded his Cart,
 He’s been too free with the Creature,
 Sir Richard has taken off his Considering Cap,
 He’s Chap-fallen,


England 1730-35 The Brothers Clarke with Other Gentlemen Taking Wine by Gawen Hamilton (British painter, c 1698-1737)

D
 He’s Disguiz’d,
 He’s got a Dish,
 Kill’d his Dog,
 Took his Drops,
 It is a Dark Day with him,
 He’s a Dead Man,
 Has Dipp’d his Bill,
 He’s Dagg’d,
 He’s seen the Devil,

E
He’s Prince Eugene,
Enter’d,
Wet both Eyes,
Cock Ey’d,
Got the Pole Evil,
Got a brass Eye,
Made an Example,
He’s Eat a Toad & half for Breakfast.
In his Element,


England 1730-50 Joseph Highmore (English painter, 1692-1780) Figures in a Tavern or Coffeehouse

F
 He’s Fishey,
 Fox’d,
 Fuddled,
 Sore Footed,
 Frozen,
 Well in for’t,
 Owes no Man a Farthing,
 Fears no Man,
 Crump Footed,
 Been to France,
 Flush’d,
 Froze his Mouth,
 Fetter’d,
 Been to a Funeral,
 His Flag is out,
 Fuzl’d,
 Spoke with his Friend,
 Been at an Indian Feast.


England 1732 A Midnight Modern Conversation” by William Hogarth (British painter, 1697-1764)

G
 He’s Glad,
 Groatable,
 Gold-headed,
 Glaiz’d,
 Generous,
 Booz’d the Gage,
 As Dizzy as a Goose,
 Been before George,
 Got the Gout,
 Had a Kick in the Guts,
 Been with Sir John Goa,
 Been at Geneva,
 Globular,
 Got the Glanders.

H
Half and Half,
Hardy,
Top Heavy,
Got by the Head,
Hiddey,
Got on his little Hat,
Hammerish,
Loose in the Hilts,
Knows not the way Home,
Got the Hornson,
Haunted with Evil Spirits,
Has Taken Hippocrates grand Elixir,


France 1735 Luncheon Party in the Park by Nicolas Lancret (French artist, 1690-1743)

I - J
He’s Intoxicated,
Jolly,
Jagg’d,
Jambled,
Going to Jerusalem,
Jocular,
Been to Jerico,
Juicy.

K
He’s a King,
Clips the King’s English,
Seen the French King,
The King is his Cousin,
Got Kib’d Heels,
Knapt,
Het his Kettle.


England 1735-45 Joseph Highmore (English painter, 1692-1780) Mr Oldham and his Guests

L
He’s in Liquor,
Lordly,
He makes Indentures with his Leggs,
Well to Live,
Light,
Lappy,
Limber,

M
He sees two Moons,
Merry,
Middling,
Moon-Ey’d,
Muddled,
Seen a Flock of Moons,
Maudlin,
Mountous,
Muddy,
Rais’d his Monuments,
Mellow,


Belgium 1750s A Merry Party” by Jan Jozef Horemans the Younger (Flemish artist, 1714 - 1790)

N
He’s eat the Cocoa Nut,
Nimptopsical,
Got the Night Mare,

O
He’s Oil’d,
Eat Opium,
Smelt of an Onion,
Oxycrocium,
Overset,


 American 1752-58 Sea Captains Carousing in Surinam” by John Greenwood (American artist, 1727 - 1792)

P
He drank till he gave up his Half-Penny,
Pidgeon Ey’d,
Pungey,
Priddy,
As good conditioned as a Puppy,
Has scalt his Head Pan,
Been among the Philistines,
In his Prosperity,
He’s been among the Philippians,
He’s contending with Pharaoh,
Wasted his Paunch,
He’s Polite,
Eat a Pudding Bagg,

Q
He’s Quarrelsome,


England 1760  A Punch Party by Thomas Patch (English artist, 1725-1782) Dated 1760

R
He’s Rocky,
Raddled,
Rich,
Religious,
Lost his Rudder,
Ragged,
Rais’d,
Been too free with Sir Richard,
Like a Rat in Trouble.


America 1760-70 Peter Manigault and His Friends by George Roupell, Charleston, South Carolina

S
He’s Stitch’d,
Seafaring,
In the Sudds,
Strong,
Been in the Sun,
As Drunk as David’s Sow,
Swampt,
His Skin is full,
He’s Steady,
He’s Stiff,
He’s burnt his Shoulder,
He’s got his Top Gallant Sails out,
Seen the yellow Star,
As Stiff as a Ring-bolt,
Half Seas over,
His Shoe pinches him,
Staggerish,
It is Star-light with him,
He carries too much Sail,
Stew’d
Stubb’d,
Soak’d,
Soft,
Been too free with Sir John Strawberry,
He’s right before the Wind with all his Studding Sails out,
Has Sold his Senses.


England 1768 A Caricature Group by John Hamilton Mortimer (British painter, 1740-1779)

T
 He’s Top’d,
 Tongue-ty’d,
 Tann’d,
 Tipium Grove,
 Double Tongu’d,
 Topsy Turvey,
 Tipsey,
 Has Swallow’d a Tavern Token,
 He’s Thaw’d,
 He’s in a Trance,
 He’s Trammel’d,

V
 He makes Virginia Fence,
 Valiant,
 Got the Indian Vapours,


England 1785 A Tavern Scene by unknown British artist

W
 The Malt is above the Water,
 He’s Wise,
 He’s Wet,
 He’s been to the Salt Water,
 He’s Water-soaken,
 He’s very Weary,
 Out of the Way.

The Phrases in this Dictionary are not (like most of our Terms of Art) borrow’d from Foreign Languages, neither are they collected from the Writings of the Learned in our own, but gather’d wholly from the modern Tavern-Conversation of Tiplers. 
The Pennsylvania Gazette, January 13, 1736/7

For further reading on drinking in early America see:
W. J. Rorabaugh, The Alcoholic Republic: An American Tradition (New York, 1979).
David W. Conroy, In Public Houses: Drink and the Revolution of Authority in Colonial Massachusetts (Chapel Hill, 1995)
Peter Thompson, Rum Punch and Revolution: Taverngoing and Public Life in Eighteenth-Century Philadelphia (Philadelphia, 1999).
Sharon V. Salinger, Taverns and Drinking in Early America. Baltimore and London, The Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002.

Wednesday, January 2, 2019

Symbolism in Public Spaces -The Masons

More complicated symbolism, not associated with traditional childhood emblems, was common in early American gardens after the Revolution, especially in the new French gardens popping up around New York City. Joseph Delacroix was famous in New York City for staging reportedly "stupendous emblematic spectacles" in his public pleasure garden. Occasionally the complicated symbolism prompted questions in New York City newspapers,


"Now Monsieur De la Croix, pray explain,
What did your emblematic worship mean?"

Masonic symbols often appeared in Delacroix's fireworks spectaculars. He presented a special celebration for St. John's Day in 1799 for the members & supporters of the Grand Masonic Lodge of New York City. At his New Vauxhall Garden he offered a fireworks display of Masonic emblems. He once again exhibited Masonic fireworks set against a painted backdrop representing the Temple of Solomon again in 1802 & 1803 to celebrate St. John's Day.

18th-century woodcut

Freemasonry, still alive & well, is a fraternal organization that uses the metaphors of stonemasons' tools & implements, against the allegorical backdrop of the building of King Solomon's Temple, to convey "a system of morality veiled in allegory and illustrated by symbols."

A poem known as the "Regius Manuscript" has been dated to approximately 1390, & is the oldest known Masonic text. There were Masonic lodges in Scotland as early as the late 16th century & references to lodges in England followed in the mid-17th century.

During the British American colonial period, the Grand Lodge of England was founded on 24 June 1717, when 4 existing London lodges met for a joint dinner. The 18th century English penchant for organization & control led to this pleasant dinner get-together rapidly expanding into a regulatory body, which most English lodges joined. The Grand Lodges of Ireland & Scotland were formed in 1725 & 1736 respectively. Freemasonry was exported to the British American colonies by the 1730s – with the chartering offspring "daughter" lodges (a strange term for a meeting place that allowed no women) & the organizing various provincial grand lodges.

George Washington by William Joseph Williams (1759-1829)

George Washington was a little leary of making himself or the masons commercial symbols.  In July 1792, Washington turned down a request for a sitting from American artist William Joseph Williams, telling Governor Henry Lee of Virginia: "I am so heartily tired of the attendance which, from one cause or another, I have bestowed on these kind of people, that it is now more than two years since I have resolved to sit no more for any of them; and have adhered to it; except in instances where it has been requested by public bodies, or for a particular purpose (not of the Painters) and could not, without offence, be refused. I have been led to make this resolution for another reason besides the irksomeness of sitting, and the time I loose by it, which is, that these productions have, in my estimation, been made use of as a sort of tax upon individuals, by being engraved, and that badly, and hawked, or advertised for Sale." Williams then offered to paint Washington's portrait for the Alexandria-Washington Masonic Lodge No. 22 of the Ancient, Free, and Accepted Masons in Alexandria, Virginia.  Lodge officers wrote Washington in 1793 that it would be " a source of the most refined gratification the tracing out and contemplating the various ornaments of his character in the resemblance of his person." Williams's portrait shows Washington as a Virginia past master, with Masonic regalia and jewels. Williams's careful depiction includes a scar on Washington's left cheek, smallpox scars on his nose and cheeks, and a mole under his right ear.

After the American Revolution, independent grand lodges formed themselves within each state. Some talked of organizing an over-arching "Grand Lodge of the United States," with George Washington (who was a member of a Virginia lodge) as the first Grand Master, but the idea was rejected. The various state grand lodges did not wish to diminish their authority by agreeing to such a body. It was the familiar American battle between centralized governance & state's rights.


Not to be outdone by his fellow countryman & his greatest competitor, New York City garden owner Joseph Corré offered in fireworks "a new representation of the five points of Masonry" hoping to attract the numerous members of the city's Masonic lodges just prior to St. John's Day in 1800.

In newly democratic America, garden owners targeted their morality spectaculars at everyman, not just the gentry. Garden entrepeneurs aimed their emblems, symbols, & spectaculars to the common working man--the mechanics & masons. This focus allowed the public pleasure garden proprietor in the new nation to exhibit his egalitarian ideologies & to attract a larger paying audience to his commercial garden.